In Reykjavík, the festive season is stitched together with warmth, flavour, and long-loved rituals that turn dark winter days into something glowing and shared. Christmas here isn’t a single day. It is a rhythm, a sequence of tastes, scents and stories unfolding through December.
The season begins with the comforting smell of piparkökur, Icelandic ginger biscuits, baking in kitchens all over the city. Children help cut them into stars, hearts and snowflakes, while parents sneak a taste (or two) before they’re cooled. Soon after comes the tradition of laufabrauð, or “leaf bread” - impossibly thin discs of dough, carefully carved with delicate patterns before being fried to a crisp golden lace. Making laufabrauð is a cherished family ritual, often gathered around the table with laughter, storytelling and the quiet hum of deep winter outside.
Books hold a special place in Icelandic hearts, especially at Christmas. The Christmas Book Flood, or "Jólabókaflóð,” is a beloved tradition where new books are exchanged and devoured by candlelight on Christmas Eve. It’s a night for reading under soft blankets while snow falls silently beyond the window - a celebration of words, warmth and rest.
In the weeks leading up to Christmas, locals gather for jólahlaðborð — festive buffets that have become a much-loved Icelandic tradition. Restaurants across Reykjavík offer rich spreads of seasonal dishes, often shared among colleagues and friends in the warm anticipation of the holidays. It’s a delicious way to savour the season before the quiet beauty of Christmas itself arrives.
As Christmas approaches, Reykjavík hums with last-minute shopping. Locals wrap up warm and stroll between boutiques on Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur, pausing for hot chocolate and window displays glowing with light. For those looking for everything under one roof, the city’s main shopping centres, Kringlan and Smáralind, offer a festive buzz of their own, filled with twinkling decorations, Icelandic design, and holiday cheer. Whether you’re searching for handmade gifts or a last box of chocolates, there’s joy in the bustle itself.
On 23 December, the scent of skata (fermented skate) fills the air, which is a bold, traditional dish that divides opinions but unites families. Many restaurants serve it for lunch, and even those who can’t face it smile at the unmistakable smell drifting through the streets.
Then, as church bells ring across Reykjavík at 18:00 on Christmas Eve, the city seems to pause. This is the moment Christmas truly begins. Families gather for their festive feast — often featuring hangikjöt (smoked lamb), hamborgarhryggur (glazed pork roast) or rjúpa (ptarmigan), a traditional Icelandic delicacy. Tables glow with candles, the scent of cinnamon and cloves lingers in the air, and glasses of Malt & Appelsín, Iceland’s beloved Christmas drink, are raised in joy.
Many restaurants across the capital also offer beautifully prepared Christmas dinners and buffets, welcoming guests to share in the warmth of Icelandic hospitality.
These are the small, perfect moments that define Christmas in Reykjavík: familiar, fragrant, and full of heart.
